Taste, perhaps? This story isn't exactly breaking news, but if anyone out there wants to pour away their Cristal in sympathy with Jay-Z and restock with a less offensive marque, we'd be happy to help. So what if our champagnes mostly come from smaller producers whose names aren't exactly brands (yet)? The word on the street is that understatement is the new overstatement. Can't come up with a good understated substitute for 'bling'. Taste, perhaps?  ¶ Wednesday, June 21, 2006